The 40″ Rigid E-Series LED Light Bar is almost a perfect fit between the factory roof rack rails as I wanted it to sit almost on the roof.
So, I cut out some brackets. All I had was some scrap 4″ wide steel, so that is why the brackets don’t perfectly follow the profile of the factory roof rack rails. Then, I used a hole saw to cut out the hole for the tubing that would actually hold the light bar.
Next, I needed to cut out the end caps for the tubing. I changed out the drill bit in the hole saw to match the diameter of the Rigid stud. That way the stud would slid through the pilot hole, and I could stick a socket down the tubing to tighten the nut on the Rigid light stud.
The caps were welded on the tubing on both sides and test fit to make sure the bracket holes would line up. That is why I welded the caps on both sides of a piece of tubing even though the actual piece of tubing would be much smaller.
Now, it was time to fasten the main bracket to the factory roof rack rails. I removed the rails and put them on my work bench and determined where the holes needed to be on the bracket. Next, I marked and drilled them out and transferred the pattern to the rails.
I did not fasten the bracket with rivets. I used the rivets as holders so I could get the measurements to make the two backing plates for each side. The reason I used two backing plates as that there is a plastic rib inside the rail that I did not want to remove. I can only assume this helps the rails retain their rigidity.
I used stainless steel allen button head bolts painted black to sandwich the factory rails with the brackets and the backing plates. If you have the factory roof rails, you will understand that prior to doing this I had to make some complex bends in the brackets so that they conformed to the rails perfectly. Otherwise, if I did not do this, I am fairly certain the factory rails would crack when tightening the bolts down.
Now it is time to get the light bar up on the roof and tack the tubing in the brackets. After sliding the tubing into the holes, I cut out of the brackets I measured side to side to ensure the light was centered.
Next was the wiring. I cut a small slot at the base of the factory rails so I could slide the rigid harness up to the larger hole I drilled on the side of the rail. The harness was held tightly in place with a grommet and then sealed with RTV. As for running the harness inside, I drilled a hole in the roof and used a compression grommet along with RTV. Then, I ran the wire down the pillar separating the front and back seat, along the floor and out through the firewall of the truck to my distribution panel.
Along with the light bar, here is the complete list of customizations I made to my Toyota Tacoma:
40” Rigid Spot E-Series Light Bar on roof
10” Rigid Spot SR-Series in factory hood scoop
Four Rigid D2 Driving Lights behind grill
20” Rigid Combo E-Series behind grill
Rigid Dully Diffused for reverse lights
Replaced factory hood with TRD Sport scooped hood
Plasti-dipped hood scoop insert
Factory chrome grill replaced with Toyota color match grill shell
Grillcraft cutout grill insert
ARB front bumper w/ Smittybilt X20 10,000lb winch
Control box mounted in bumper and remote hookup re-wired to outlet in bumper
X20 Winch running Smittybilt Hybrid Fusion synthetic winch line
Factory 55 Thimble
Southern Offroad offset Hawse Fairlead
Antenna X radio antenna
Modified Husky mud flaps
N-Fab side steps
Access rollup tonneau cover
Replaced Factory chrome bumper with a painted to match rear bumper
Replaced factory mirrors with ProEfx Dodge Ram flip out mirrors w/heat and turn signals
Suspension, Wheels & Tires
ProComp 6” Stage II Suspension lift w/ Pro-Runner rear shocks
ProComp 18” 7036 wheels
ProComp 35” Xtreme M/T2 tires
Two sPod Sources under hood (1st for all Rigid lights and 2nd for compressor and additional power ports in cab of truck)
ViAir 450c compressor under hood
Pop-Lock rear tailgate lock hooked up to alarm and keyless entry
Two power ports (cigarette lighter style) installed on rear of center console for back passengers
Double USB power port installed in dash
Re-wired rear-view camera for auto reverse
Custom built six-switch panel in overhead console in place of sunglass holder
Weathertech floor mats
Redline Goods leather replacement door inserts with red TRD embroidery
Redline Goods center console pad
Sound deadened throughout entire interior (doors, floor, firewall, back wall, pillars, and roof) with Raamaudio product
TRD shifter knob
Kenwood DNX-9990HD navigation receiver
Factory rear view camera modified to run on stereo and factory backup mirror
JL Audio C5-650 component speakers in all 4 doors
JL Audio 10TW3-D4 shallow mount subwoofer in custom build box behind rear seat
Alpine PDX-5 five-channel Class D amp (4 channnel plus mono channel)
Redline Tuning hood lift struts and tailgate drop strut
Amp Research bed-step
Two 2.5 gallon air tanks in place of spare tire
Hypertech speedo calibrator
Painted engine cover